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Thread: Razorlab's 'simple' build

  1. #251
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chetrickerman View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by chetrickerman View Post
    WPC is a waste.

    Definitely get the piston dish ceramic coating.
    I thought you WPC'd literally everything in your car?
    I did, and that shit wore off faster than hell
    Good to know, thanks!

  2. #252
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Soldered up the wiring on my Sensor X board for Racecapture Pro today.

    Added quick disconnect harnesses for the sensors. Next is to heat shrink the whole module to clean it all up.



  3. #253
    Senior Member EVOL ME's Avatar
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    That is some nice work! Camera action and all lol.

  4. #254
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    good looking wiring

  5. #255
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    Very nice work man. Many of you are so talented with electronics/wiring/ECU stuff. It really amazes me.

  6. #256
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    @Black E and others....

    Before I get the motor back together I wanted to make sure I am getting everything needed to be able to rev the car out. I'm assuming 8500 with occasional 9000 rpm is still okay with the oil pump?

    Currently the motor build is looking like:

    2.0L
    Darton wet sleeves
    OEM crank
    Carrillo PRO-H 143.75mm with standard WMC rod bolts
    Carrillo 86.5 (or 86) pistons with HD wrist pins
    ACL bearings

    OEM head
    Kelford 214b cams
    kelford springs
    Supertech Inconel Exh valves (standard size)
    Supertech Black Nitride Int valves (standard size)
    GSC valve stem seals
    GSC Manganese Exhaust and Intake guides
    OEM valve locks (brand new)
    OEM retainers (used)
    DF billet exhaust mivec housing

    Anything I'm missing for a higher than stock revving engine?

  7. #257
    Senior Member chetrickerman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    @Black E and others....

    Before I get the motor back together I wanted to make sure I am getting everything needed to be able to rev the car out. I'm assuming 8500 with occasional 9000 rpm is still okay with the oil pump?

    Currently the motor build is looking like:

    2.0L
    Darton wet sleeves
    OEM crank
    Carrillo PRO-H 143.75mm with standard WMC rod bolts
    Carrillo 86.5 (or 86) pistons with HD wrist pins
    ACL bearings

    OEM head
    Kelford 214b cams
    kelford springs
    Supertech Inconel Exh valves (standard size)
    Supertech Black Nitride Int valves (standard size)
    GSC valve stem seals
    GSC Manganese Exhaust and Intake guides
    OEM valve locks (brand new)
    OEM retainers (used)
    DF billet exhaust mivec housing

    Anything I'm missing for a higher than stock revving engine?
    Make sure your bearing clearances are good for that kind of RPM

  8. #258
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chetrickerman View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    @Black E and others....

    Before I get the motor back together I wanted to make sure I am getting everything needed to be able to rev the car out. I'm assuming 8500 with occasional 9000 rpm is still okay with the oil pump?

    Currently the motor build is looking like:

    2.0L
    Darton wet sleeves
    OEM crank
    Carrillo PRO-H 143.75mm with standard WMC rod bolts
    Carrillo 86.5 (or 86) pistons with HD wrist pins
    ACL bearings

    OEM head
    Kelford 214b cams
    kelford springs
    Supertech Inconel Exh valves (standard size)
    Supertech Black Nitride Int valves (standard size)
    GSC valve stem seals
    GSC Manganese Exhaust and Intake guides
    OEM valve locks (brand new)
    OEM retainers (used)
    DF billet exhaust mivec housing

    Anything I'm missing for a higher than stock revving engine?
    Make sure your bearing clearances are good for that kind of RPM
    What should I be requesting?

  9. #259
    Senior Member chetrickerman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by chetrickerman View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    @Black E and others....

    Before I get the motor back together I wanted to make sure I am getting everything needed to be able to rev the car out. I'm assuming 8500 with occasional 9000 rpm is still okay with the oil pump?

    Currently the motor build is looking like:

    2.0L
    Darton wet sleeves
    OEM crank
    Carrillo PRO-H 143.75mm with standard WMC rod bolts
    Carrillo 86.5 (or 86) pistons with HD wrist pins
    ACL bearings

    OEM head
    Kelford 214b cams
    kelford springs
    Supertech Inconel Exh valves (standard size)
    Supertech Black Nitride Int valves (standard size)
    GSC valve stem seals
    GSC Manganese Exhaust and Intake guides
    OEM valve locks (brand new)
    OEM retainers (used)
    DF billet exhaust mivec housing

    Anything I'm missing for a higher than stock revving engine?
    Make sure your bearing clearances are good for that kind of RPM
    What should I be requesting?
    PM sent

  10. #260
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    The OEM pump does start to cavitate ~9k but it looks like 8500 is fine with good oil. I would say just keep a eye on oil pressure vs oil temp at the track as the oil will thin out quite a bit one its getting really hot. If you can keep 70-75+psi then you should be fine.

  11. #261
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black E View Post
    The OEM pump does start to cavitate ~9k but it looks like 8500 is fine with good oil. I would say just keep a eye on oil pressure vs oil temp at the track as the oil will thin out quite a bit one its getting really hot. If you can keep 70-75+psi then you should be fine.
    Good info thanks. I don't think I would make it a habit to do 8500 at track, 8 will be enough most of the time probably. At some point I will do the 4.3 FD anyway.

    How about the parts? Everything look okay for higher rpm usage? Stock retainers okay?

  12. #262
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    Yeah the OEM retainers are pretty good, I've had mine up to 9500-9600 with stupid boost.
    You got a solid set of parts there so you should be good.

    You did the PTE 5858?
    I did 590whp on the stock long block (with cams and springs) at like 28psi with easy torque and only revving to 8k. For a track car should be plenty stout with a good powerband and easy on the motor.
    Last edited by Black E; 12-07-2016 at 03:46 PM.

  13. #263
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    More progress. Motor is now out of the car. Next step is tearing the block down to send to RED to get sleeved




  14. #264
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black E View Post
    You did the PTE 5858?
    I did 590whp on the stock long block (with cams and springs) at like 28psi with easy torque and only revving to 8k. For a track car should be plenty stout with a good powerband and easy on the motor.
    Yup, PTE 5858 .82 SS

  15. #265
    Senior Member chetrickerman's Avatar
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    How long did RED quote you for sleeving time?

  16. #266
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chetrickerman View Post
    How long did RED quote you for sleeving time?
    Two weeks, we'll see if that is actual reality.

  17. #267
    Senior Member chetrickerman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by chetrickerman View Post
    How long did RED quote you for sleeving time?
    Two weeks, we'll see if that is actual reality.
    Wow, that pretty quick

  18. #268
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    20,000 miles on the car, 19,100 miles of 130whp/110wtq more than stock.
    Six track events, WOT every day I drove it.

    The Evo 10 stock clutch works pretty well if you don't abuse the car like an idiot. Still has a ton of life on it but swapping it out while the motor is out and being built.




  19. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    @Black E and others....

    Before I get the motor back together I wanted to make sure I am getting everything needed to be able to rev the car out. I'm assuming 8500 with occasional 9000 rpm is still okay with the oil pump?

    Currently the motor build is looking like:

    2.0L
    Darton wet sleeves
    OEM crank
    Carrillo PRO-H 143.75mm with standard WMC rod bolts
    Carrillo 86.5 (or 86) pistons with HD wrist pins
    ACL bearings

    OEM head
    Kelford 214b cams
    kelford springs
    Supertech Inconel Exh valves (standard size)
    Supertech Black Nitride Int valves (standard size)
    GSC valve stem seals
    GSC Manganese Exhaust and Intake guides
    OEM valve locks (brand new)
    OEM retainers (used)
    DF billet exhaust mivec housing

    Anything I'm missing for a higher than stock revving engine?
    Super Damper would help, also i dunno what everyone else's opinions are but @Funwad and I both run the MAP billet chain guide.

  20. #270
    Senior Member pistolpete69916's Avatar
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    That clutch looks brand new. Lol.

    I have some H11 studs (without the nuts, youd have to call map for a new set of nuts) if you want em for cheap. Been hard trying to sell them, pm if interested

  21. #271
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    After the teardown there is more damage than previously thought....

    The crank is scored on #4. Taking it to machine shop to see what they say.

    The rod bearings in #4 also have some weird heat/wear marks on them. I'm assuming that was from the cylinder failure or from the cylinder being washed down with fuel and went pst the rings or something.

    If I need a new crank I'm going to revist the stroker idea...

  22. #272
    Member Sleeping X's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    After the teardown there is more damage than previously thought....

    The crank is scored on #4. Taking it to machine shop to see what they say.

    The rod bearings in #4 also have some weird heat/wear marks on them. I'm assuming that was from the cylinder failure or from the cylinder being washed down with fuel and went pst the rings or something.

    If I need a new crank I'm going to revist the stroker idea...
    @mike has a manley stoker crank for sale....

  23. #273
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    ^^^which also needs to be polished

  24. #274
    Senior Member mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black E View Post
    ^^^which also needs to be polished
    How much is polishing it?

  25. #275
    Senior Member pistolpete69916's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    After the teardown there is more damage than previously thought....

    The crank is scored on #4. Taking it to machine shop to see what they say.

    The rod bearings in #4 also have some weird heat/wear marks on them. I'm assuming that was from the cylinder failure or from the cylinder being washed down with fuel and went pst the rings or something.

    If I need a new crank I'm going to revist the stroker idea...
    The manley crank is sweet on an 86mm, especially since its like 7lbs lighter iirc, had i known about the 90mm issues two years ago i would have gone that route + 86 bore and probably still had a good build.

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