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Thread: Razorlab's 'simple' build

  1. #851
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exyia View Post
    Are you having trouble with front grip now? Or just nervous/getting used to the new setup? You're sawing the wheel back and forth a bit more than your usual on corner entry :P
    Couple things. I've always had a bad habit of turning in too early, so having not been on track in two years, it was more apparent this weekend. Other thing was my three year old used NT01's weren't so grippy anymore so I was also having to constantly adjust the rear as it was stepping out slightly which was a bit unnerving. So yea, basically nervous.


    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    I see. So you are effectively running 10.5 +18 in the front. I was wondering, why run a 10.5 wheel if you can have a 9.5 wheel with the same 275 tire. I have 10.5 +15, and i am using a 265 tire just so that it wouldn't rub. But all that can be avoided if a 9.5 +22 is used. Is it the wider stance?
    The NT01's work way better on a wider wheel. The 275's are way too sloppy on a 9.5 wide wheel.

    Quote Originally Posted by AdamEvo View Post
    Is the 120+ in 4th due to new redline? When do you shift? Or do you have longer final drive?
    Yes, I built the motor to rev more. Stock final drive.

  2. #852
    Senior Member DereksX's Avatar
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    Good to see you out and enjoying the car! Lucky you!
    WTF 2.0 in Progress

  3. #853
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    So here is my last session of the day on Sunday. Calling out my operating temps and oil pressure.

    https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/thunde...18-19&solo=3-8

    Couple things to note.

    - I need to cut out the fender liner behind the oil cooler, oil temps seem high for a 70F day and an upgraded cooler. I'm thinking it's because the cooler can't breathe. Max of 260-270F oil temps.

    - My oil pressure drops about 20-30psi at WOT at track oil temps of 250f+, it was running around 70-80psi at WOT. On the street at 190-200F oil pressure is 90-100psi at WOT.

    - My charge temps are around 30F more than my intake temps. 120F MAT when IAT is 80. I'm starting to think the AGP FMIC kind of sucks. Time for a different FMIC? Which is the best?

    - My IAT temps where great, I made a custom shield by cutting up the box from my old AEM intake. It worked really well as the IAT's stayed low and constant and maybe 10F more than ambient.

    - My Coolant temps stayed rock solid at 185-190F the whole time. Go OEM radiator.

  4. #854
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    precision turbo powered car = hotter oil, cooler coolant.

    i saw 270*F oil temps pretty regularly. i ran 15w-50 for most track days as a result.

  5. #855
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    I would highly suggest the Greedy 33F IC.
    Itís very well made, itís probably lighter then the AGP 3.5Ē (it was a good bit lighter then my old AMS 3.5Ē) because it is of a tube and fin design which also means that air moves easier through the core, itís almost 4Ē thick, has internal air dividers so all the core gets used as opposed to having the bottom do most of the work and it is fairly priced.
    The only negative is that the couplers that it comes with donít really like 40psi+ of boost but they may work just fine for you on wimpy boost

  6. #856
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by momo View Post
    precision turbo powered car = hotter oil, cooler coolant.

    i saw 270*F oil temps pretty regularly. i ran 15w-50 for most track days as a result.
    I was thinking that as well about the PT5858. How where your oil pressures on track? I am running VR1 15w-50.

    Quote Originally Posted by Black E View Post
    I would highly suggest the Greedy 33F IC.
    It’s very well made, it’s probably lighter then the AGP 3.5” (it was a good bit lighter then my old AMS 3.5”) because it is of a tube and fin design which also means that air moves easier through the core, it’s almost 4” thick, has internal air dividers so all the core gets used as opposed to having the bottom do most of the work and it is fairly priced.
    The only negative is that the couplers that it comes with don’t really like 40psi+ of boost but they may work just fine for you on wimpy boost
    Awesome, I was thinking about the same FMIC. I heard they where way lighter too.

    This one? https://www.maperformance.com/produc...r-kit-12030436

  7. #857
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    Yes

  8. #858
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    I was thinking that as well about the PT5858. How where your oil pressures on track? I am running VR1 15w-50.
    i believe my WOT pressures were still what i considered good (70-80psi). i'll see if i saved any logs with the temp and pressure.

    i really only focused on it after i set the RCP up to flash yellow at me when if i hit 250 *F. then red >260 *F. well that happened quickly so i upped those numbers to 265 and 280.
    the only cause for concern i had after hitting 270+ temps was the oil pressure at idle would be uncomfortably low, reading <10. after upping to 15w-50 on warmer track days i seem to have gained a little bit of pressure at high temp.

  9. #859
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by momo View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    I was thinking that as well about the PT5858. How where your oil pressures on track? I am running VR1 15w-50.
    i believe my WOT pressures were still what i considered good (70-80psi). i'll see if i saved any logs with the temp and pressure.

    i really only focused on it after i set the RCP up to flash yellow at me when if i hit 250 *F. then red >260 *F. well that happened quickly so i upped those numbers to 265 and 280.
    the only cause for concern i had after hitting 270+ temps was the oil pressure at idle would be uncomfortably low, reading <10. after upping to 15w-50 on warmer track days i seem to have gained a little bit of pressure at high temp.
    Yea I am not super concerned. The pressures where consistent and my idle was always strong at 21-25psi.

  10. #860
    Evo X Harlot UT_EvoX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black E View Post
    I would highly suggest the Greedy 33F IC.
    It’s very well made, it’s probably lighter then the AGP 3.5” (it was a good bit lighter then my old AMS 3.5”) because it is of a tube and fin design which also means that air moves easier through the core, it’s almost 4” thick, has internal air dividers so all the core gets used as opposed to having the bottom do most of the work and it is fairly priced.
    The only negative is that the couplers that it comes with don’t really like 40psi+ of boost but they may work just fine for you on wimpy boost
    Hmmm I wonder exactly how much lighter it is. I like that.

    If anybody wants to find out, there is one in stock in PA that I can give a really nice price on.
    350 WHP WW Flex Fuel 2014 Evo X MR | 600 WHP OB 2008 Evo X GSR

    Evo X Builder & Tuner since 2009 - Boosted Mitsubishis since 2005 | Buy fuel kits, flex fuel setups, or order an e-tune online: http://www.wtftuned.com/

    Follow us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/WTFTuned

  11. #861
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    It was a while ago but if I remember correctly it was a good 8lbs lighter then the AMS IC and the AMS was like 8lbs lighter then a ETS 4”.
    For me the Greddy performed better then the ETS 4” even running silly boost but the ETS 5” does work better for me then the Greddy...but the 5” is like 38lbs! It literally feels like you’re putting a big lead plate on the front of the car

  12. #862
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    I forgot to put in my original track post but... all the inconel heat shielding KICKED ASS with track use. I could literally come off track, pop my hood and put my had down in the space between the firewall heat shield and the turbo/manifold and keep it there. It was hot but not "holy F I am going to burn my hand".

    I was super impressed and now I really think it was worth every penny. Amazing.

  13. #863
    Senior Member pistolpete69916's Avatar
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    I havent seen pics of your bay, but if you havent yet, and have material left over, i'd suggest slapping some insulation onto the OEM hood naca duct (aluminum piece), and also wrap the washerfluid lines as well (which are between the hood and duct). When i had my kit on the evo, doing this resulted in an anecdotal temp drop on the paint side of the naca duct via feel. I mean it's not a big deal, but if you care about your paint long term i'd do it again.

  14. #864
    Global Mod of Things DKevoX's Avatar
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    ^^ good idea! I'm going to steal it.

    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    - I need to cut out the fender liner behind the oil cooler, oil temps seem high for a 70F day and an upgraded cooler. I'm thinking it's because the cooler can't breathe. Max of 260-270F oil temps.
    Which oil cooler are you running? I've been trying to think of solutions to force more air through the oil cooler.

    One idea I think is worthwhile is running the SSP oil cooler in series with an oil cooler in the stock location. That should help with temps significantly.

    My other idea is to figure out how to mount a fan to the back of the cooler and run it off the fog lights. I think that would definitely also help temps.

    Just some ideas I've seen/stolen from reading about this.
    Last edited by DKevoX; 03-14-2018 at 02:54 PM.

  15. #865
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    I'm running the MAP Kit which uses a setrab cooler.

  16. #866
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    If anybody is interested in seeing a log from an entire session of 7 laps I uploaded it here: https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/thunde...11-17-18-21-22

    I had to take out a bunch of the other log items to get the log under the 5mb Datazap limit.

  17. #867
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Did some maintenance on the car today to prep it for my next track day on the 28th.

    Bled the brakes, changed the oil and I also cut open more of the fender liner on the oil cooler side. It's surprising how little is open from the factory and also surprising how easy it was to cut more holes open with a box cutter.

    Hoping this is going to help the cooling...

    I had already started cutting some holes before I realized I should take a before/after photo so don't mind the couple added holes in the before photo.

  18. #868
    Senior Member Mnemuth's Avatar
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    I wonder how long those brakes will remain red in color.
    The finger cannot point at itself.

  19. #869
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mnemuth View Post
    I wonder how long those brakes will remain red in color.
    They have been dark for awhile, the passenger side being easily three shades darker than drivers side. My iphone over exposed what little you can see.

  20. #870
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    I had to do something about the GoPro wind noise from my track videos so I went out and bought some mics and a dual channel splitter for my GoPro.

    I'm testing out having one mic behind the dash to get engine/intake noises (might move it closer to engine) and one mic in the trunk to get the exhaust noise.

    One problem I ran into is when I put the mic in the trunk there is a bunch of static from that mic only. I think it might be getting interference from the surge tank/pump controller setup. It's more apparent at idle and kind of goes away at full throttle.

    Either way, my test today was a success for getting rid of wind noise at least. It was super windy out today and the mics didn't pick up any of it. GoPro footage is way better now.

    Here is footage with both mics:



    And here is footage with ONLY the mic behind the dash:

    Last edited by razorlab; 03-24-2018 at 05:36 PM.

  21. #871
    Global Mod of Things DKevoX's Avatar
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    ^^ That worked really well! Well done!

  22. #872
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Attended another track day yesterday. Was great over all. I'll write up a more detailed post with video once I recover from being away from work for two days.

    It was a warmer day and MAT was 40-50F higher than IAT at some points so it really is time for me to throw this AGP FMIC in the bay and get one better suited for lapping.

    Here is one full session with Speed, IAT, MAT, Oil Temp plotted. Ambient temp was approx 85*F: https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/thunde...2&zoom=0-29221

    Also had an odd loss of power once in the straight at 120mph, I thought I lost a spark plug again and was preparing for the worst but all spark plugs checked out and car ran fine after that and can't find anything in the logs yet so *shrug*
    Last edited by razorlab; 03-29-2018 at 12:54 PM.

  23. #873
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    Maybe you had a slight coupler colapse?

  24. #874
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black E View Post
    Maybe you had a slight coupler colapse?
    Maybe? I'll scour through the logs again.

    Also. check this out, this has to be the sensor going/is bad right? There is no way crankcase all of a sudden has 4.2 PSI positive pressure between shifts and 5.71 PSI at WOT without popping the dipstick out can it?

    "5barvcvpsig" is my 5bar sensor mounted at the valve cover outlet.

    Here is towards the end of day:
    https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/thunde...om=26341-26971

    The way it's zig-zaggy and then back to normal at 8k there makes me believe that the sensor went bad. Maybe the heat killed it?

    Here is what it was at the beginning of the day, normal:
    https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/thunde...om=34876-35492

  25. #875
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    Yeah it looks like it may be going out. Is it a regular 5 bar “MAP” sensor? I would think that it would be best to use a fluid pressure sensor for that application.

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