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Thread: Refinishing Suspension and Subframe Components

  1. #26
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    The por is a great suggestion, but the protective properties of the special chassis powder seems like a great option. That, and since the engine is getting the works done to it, might as well make the chassis stuff just as nice. Being from Pittsburgh, I know you know how bad the rust can be. My car is an 08 and went through 2 Detroit winters and 6 Cleveland winters. It's due for a bit of POR and honestly it may be simplest to media blast and powder coat, I got a guy who can do great work for a good price.
    Where are you located? We have a good powder coater out here near Rochester PA west of Pittsburgh. Cmac and I have both used them.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    Just south of Cleveland, by 71 and 80. I use North Coast Powder Coating, they did my wheels and turbo kit hot parts. Great pricing, quality work, and local so I can drive parts there quickly as opposed to shipping.

    Who is your guy?
    Called Totally Baked, same deal two honest gents, doing good work ata good price. One of them used to own an X.

    Unrelated, a close friend of mine lives a bit east of you in Twinsburg. He works for DFAS in Cleveland and his wife is a researcher at Case Western. I head up there once every year to visit sometimes in the X.
    That's pretty cool, small world! Twinsburg is close by, I used to work in Credit and AR at Nestle in Solon, which borders Twinsburg to the north. One of these days we need to have a NEO/Western PA meet in the Youngstown area or something, I think it would be pretty cool. Preferably when my Evo is back up and running after the build.
    A meetup would be cool, we moved to PA from Detroit and I graduated HS in near Youngstown. I live in Pittsburgh now though.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  2. #27
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    On a side (on topic?) note, POR15 silver is a dead on match for Whiteline's silver. I had to refinish my Whiteline camber arms and the POR has held up much better than the original powder coating. Be forewarned, it will stain anything it touches.

  3. #28
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    Can you apply POR to existing underbody that might have light surface rust? Or do you have to wirewheel everything?

  4. #29
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trackstar99 View Post
    Can you apply POR to existing underbody that might have light surface rust? Or do you have to wirewheel everything?
    I've always used it on frames and suspension parts off the car. That have been fully and properly prepped.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  5. #30
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    I just realized that it is Paint Over Rust lol

  6. #31
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trackstar99 View Post
    I just realized that it is Paint Over Rust lol
    Yeah, there is still some prep instructions. Nothing wild though.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  7. #32
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    I've been formulating a list of parts and steps for my project in an attempt to get organized. It's not anywhere near complete, but figured I'd share for additional comments or recommendations:

    Suspension Overhaul:

    Replace Front Sway Bar:
    SuperPro Sway Bar Stabiliser Kit RC0007FZ-27
    Replace Front Endlinks:
    North Shore Speed Shop Custom Endlinks
    Refinish and Upgrade Front Lower Control Arms:
    Press out stock bushings
    SuperPro Control Arm Lower-Inner Front Bush Kit SPF2418K
    SuperPro Control Arm Lower-Inner Rear Bush Kit DURO3439K
    SuperPro Roll Centre Adjusting Ball Joint TRC0004
    Replace Outer Tie Rod Ends:
    SuperPro Roll Centre Adjusting Ball Joint TRC0004
    Refinish Inner Tie Rods?
    Refinish Front Subframe
    Refinish Front Suspension Center Member
    Refinish Front Crossmember Bar
    Refinish/Replace Front Crossmember Stay Plates
    Refinish Front Knuckles
    Replace and Refinish Front Brake Dust Shields:
    OEM Part No. 4605A531 Left
    OEM Part No. 4605A532 Right
    Replace Rear Sway Bar:
    SuperPro Sway Bar Stabiliser Kit RC0007RZ-27
    Replace Rear Endlinks:
    North Shore Speed Shop Custom Endlinks
    Refinish and Upgrade Rear Upper Control Arms:
    Press out stock bushings
    SuperPro Control Arm Upper Bush Kit DURO3737K
    SuperPro Control Arm Upper-Inner Front Bush Kit SPF2418K
    Refinish Rear Subframe:
    SuperPro Differential Mount Bush Kit SPF3730K
    Rear Trailing Arm:
    Replace Rear Toe Arm:
    Replace Rear Camber Arm:
    Refinish Rear Knuckles
    Replace and Refinish Rear Brake Dust Shields:
    OEM Part No. 4800A059 Left
    OEM Part No. 4800A060 Right

    I'm thinking Megan Racing rear camber and toe arms but still researching.
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  8. #33
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    I've been formulating a list of parts and steps for my project in an attempt to get organized. It's not anywhere near complete, but figured I'd share for additional comments or recommendations:

    Suspension Overhaul:

    Replace Front Sway Bar:
    SuperPro Sway Bar Stabiliser Kit RC0007FZ-27
    Replace Front Endlinks:
    North Shore Speed Shop Custom Endlinks
    Refinish and Upgrade Front Lower Control Arms:
    Press out stock bushings
    SuperPro Control Arm Lower-Inner Front Bush Kit SPF2418K
    SuperPro Control Arm Lower-Inner Rear Bush Kit DURO3439K
    SuperPro Roll Centre Adjusting Ball Joint TRC0004
    Replace Outer Tie Rod Ends:
    SuperPro Roll Centre Adjusting Ball Joint TRC0004
    Refinish Inner Tie Rods?
    Refinish Front Subframe
    Refinish Front Suspension Center Member
    Refinish Front Crossmember Bar
    Refinish/Replace Front Crossmember Stay Plates
    Refinish Front Knuckles
    Replace and Refinish Front Brake Dust Shields:
    OEM Part No. 4605A531 Left
    OEM Part No. 4605A532 Right
    Replace Rear Sway Bar:
    SuperPro Sway Bar Stabiliser Kit RC0007RZ-27
    Replace Rear Endlinks:
    North Shore Speed Shop Custom Endlinks
    Refinish and Upgrade Rear Upper Control Arms:
    Press out stock bushings
    SuperPro Control Arm Upper Bush Kit DURO3737K
    SuperPro Control Arm Upper-Inner Front Bush Kit SPF2418K
    Refinish Rear Subframe:
    SuperPro Differential Mount Bush Kit SPF3730K
    Rear Trailing Arm:
    Replace Rear Toe Arm:
    Replace Rear Camber Arm:
    Refinish Rear Knuckles
    Replace and Refinish Rear Brake Dust Shields:
    OEM Part No. 4800A059 Left
    OEM Part No. 4800A060 Right

    I'm thinking Megan Racing rear camber and toe arms but still researching.
    I have most of those parts (minus front sway and links until clutch R&R)...all super nice. Be sure to get new suspension bolts too since the ones on can get buggered up pretty good.

    I spent a good bit of $$ on new bolts. I can give you prices and P/N when I get home if u need them.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  9. #34
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    I've been formulating a list of parts and steps for my project in an attempt to get organized. It's not anywhere near complete, but figured I'd share for additional comments or recommendations:

    Suspension Overhaul:

    Replace Front Sway Bar:
    SuperPro Sway Bar Stabiliser Kit RC0007FZ-27
    Replace Front Endlinks:
    North Shore Speed Shop Custom Endlinks
    Refinish and Upgrade Front Lower Control Arms:
    Press out stock bushings
    SuperPro Control Arm Lower-Inner Front Bush Kit SPF2418K
    SuperPro Control Arm Lower-Inner Rear Bush Kit DURO3439K
    SuperPro Roll Centre Adjusting Ball Joint TRC0004
    Replace Outer Tie Rod Ends:
    SuperPro Roll Centre Adjusting Ball Joint TRC0004
    Refinish Inner Tie Rods?
    Refinish Front Subframe
    Refinish Front Suspension Center Member
    Refinish Front Crossmember Bar
    Refinish/Replace Front Crossmember Stay Plates
    Refinish Front Knuckles
    Replace and Refinish Front Brake Dust Shields:
    OEM Part No. 4605A531 Left
    OEM Part No. 4605A532 Right
    Replace Rear Sway Bar:
    SuperPro Sway Bar Stabiliser Kit RC0007RZ-27
    Replace Rear Endlinks:
    North Shore Speed Shop Custom Endlinks
    Refinish and Upgrade Rear Upper Control Arms:
    Press out stock bushings
    SuperPro Control Arm Upper Bush Kit DURO3737K
    SuperPro Control Arm Upper-Inner Front Bush Kit SPF2418K
    Refinish Rear Subframe:
    SuperPro Differential Mount Bush Kit SPF3730K
    Rear Trailing Arm:
    Replace Rear Toe Arm:
    Replace Rear Camber Arm:
    Refinish Rear Knuckles
    Replace and Refinish Rear Brake Dust Shields:
    OEM Part No. 4800A059 Left
    OEM Part No. 4800A060 Right

    I'm thinking Megan Racing rear camber and toe arms but still researching.
    I have most of those parts (minus front sway and links until clutch R&R)...all super nice. Be sure to get new suspension bolts too since the ones on can get buggered up pretty good.

    I spent a good bit of $$ on new bolts. I can give you prices and P/N when I get home if u need them.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    That would be very helpful, and very much appreciated. I have yet to go through all the bolts I need, but I know I will be replacing all or most of them. One even broke that I need to drill out and possibly retap...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  10. #35
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    So I picked up the following bolts and nuts for the front suspension:

    - 2 thru/pinch bolts for ball joints.
    - 2 nuts with washers for bolts above.
    - 2 bolts (the expensive ones) inner A arm. to subframe.

    - 4 bolts with washers for front endlink bracket to A arm.

    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Nate; 11-08-2017 at 03:37 PM.
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  11. #36
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    So I picked up the following bolts and nuts for the front suspension:

    - 2 thru/pinch bolts for ball joints.
    - 2 nuts with washers for bolts above.
    - 2 bolts (the expensive ones) inner A arm. to subframe.

    - 4 bolts with washers for front endlink bracket to A arm.

    You're the best, thanks. It looks like STM has very similar pricing on those bolts and nuts, for anyone looking to source them too. Since I have to buy some other OEM components, I'll likely start a list of everything so I only order once. Brake dust shield, support brackets, bolts, nuts, and so on. Watch it add up to 500 bucks or more for OEM replacements...
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  12. #37
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    Just a quick update, instances spent wrenching on the vehicle have been few and far between, running into issues left and right with seized components and having to hack things out like endlinks and misc bolts. Having a very tough time with the front coils, the top bolt in the knuckle is completely seized, tried breaker bars, impact, kroil, torching, drilling, nothing. I've resorted to pulling the whole knuckle and lower mounting bracket on the coil so I can use my press to get the bolt free.

    One question though, are the rear toe bolts for the toe arm @ the subframe the same part as the camber bolts for the lateral arm @ the subframe? They were seized on one of the arms and had to be cut out, so I didn't get a chance to compare them when they were out. My research online seems to indicate they are the same part number but I'm just looking for confirmation.

    Also used this as an opportunity to install SS brake lines, so those are on order, I think there is potential for this project to have beautiful results. I'm pretty excited despite the hurdles.
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  13. #38
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    Just a quick update, instances spent wrenching on the vehicle have been few and far between, running into issues left and right with seized components and having to hack things out like endlinks and misc bolts. Having a very tough time with the front coils, the top bolt in the knuckle is completely seized, tried breaker bars, impact, kroil, torching, drilling, nothing. I've resorted to pulling the whole knuckle and lower mounting bracket on the coil so I can use my press to get the bolt free.

    One question though, are the rear toe bolts for the toe arm @ the subframe the same part as the camber bolts for the lateral arm @ the subframe? They were seized on one of the arms and had to be cut out, so I didn't get a chance to compare them when they were out. My research online seems to indicate they are the same part number but I'm just looking for confirmation.

    Also used this as an opportunity to install SS brake lines, so those are on order, I think there is potential for this project to have beautiful results. I'm pretty excited despite the hurdles.
    Man, I hear you on seized suspension components. I did my suspension and it was very frustrating at times. I used alternating freeze spray and heat with a lot of patience to free everything.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  14. #39
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    Just a quick update, instances spent wrenching on the vehicle have been few and far between, running into issues left and right with seized components and having to hack things out like endlinks and misc bolts. Having a very tough time with the front coils, the top bolt in the knuckle is completely seized, tried breaker bars, impact, kroil, torching, drilling, nothing. I've resorted to pulling the whole knuckle and lower mounting bracket on the coil so I can use my press to get the bolt free.

    One question though, are the rear toe bolts for the toe arm @ the subframe the same part as the camber bolts for the lateral arm @ the subframe? They were seized on one of the arms and had to be cut out, so I didn't get a chance to compare them when they were out. My research online seems to indicate they are the same part number but I'm just looking for confirmation.

    Also used this as an opportunity to install SS brake lines, so those are on order, I think there is potential for this project to have beautiful results. I'm pretty excited despite the hurdles.
    Man, I hear you on seized suspension components. I did my suspension and it was very frustrating at times. I used alternating freeze spray and heat with a lot of patience to free everything.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    The biggest problem is the fact that over the life of the car, many different hands have touched some of these components, and it's obvious that no anti seize was used upon reinstallation, except for the brake caliper bolts which came out very easily. Not a shocker, because I'm the one that had those bolts out way back when and used it liberally.

    I don't own a torch, so I keep borrowing my brother's. Maybe switching between that and the freeze off I have may do the trick, can't say I tried both right after one another yet. Regardless, I am removing the axle nut this weekend and then the wheel hub. Wish me luck! Then I have the front right to do after... it never ends...
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  15. #40
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    Just a quick update, instances spent wrenching on the vehicle have been few and far between, running into issues left and right with seized components and having to hack things out like endlinks and misc bolts. Having a very tough time with the front coils, the top bolt in the knuckle is completely seized, tried breaker bars, impact, kroil, torching, drilling, nothing. I've resorted to pulling the whole knuckle and lower mounting bracket on the coil so I can use my press to get the bolt free.

    One question though, are the rear toe bolts for the toe arm @ the subframe the same part as the camber bolts for the lateral arm @ the subframe? They were seized on one of the arms and had to be cut out, so I didn't get a chance to compare them when they were out. My research online seems to indicate they are the same part number but I'm just looking for confirmation.

    Also used this as an opportunity to install SS brake lines, so those are on order, I think there is potential for this project to have beautiful results. I'm pretty excited despite the hurdles.
    Man, I hear you on seized suspension components. I did my suspension and it was very frustrating at times. I used alternating freeze spray and heat with a lot of patience to free everything.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    The biggest problem is the fact that over the life of the car, many different hands have touched some of these components, and it's obvious that no anti seize was used upon reinstallation, except for the brake caliper bolts which came out very easily. Not a shocker, because I'm the one that had those bolts out way back when and used it liberally.

    I don't own a torch, so I keep borrowing my brother's. Maybe switching between that and the freeze off I have may do the trick, can't say I tried both right after one another yet. Regardless, I am removing the axle nut this weekend and then the wheel hub. Wish me luck! Then I have the front right to do after... it never ends...
    At a minimum a MAP gas torch is helpful and affordable. I was lucky enough to not need acetylene.

    Good luck man!!

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  16. #41
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    Axle nut came off very easily, the hub assembly not so much. HF has those claw pullers but many negative reviews about the threads stripping so I'm sourcing a higher quality puller elsewhere. Also, the ABS sensor seems to be stuck in the knuckle. I tried to gingerly use a flat head to slowly separate it and it looks like the wiring is just getting damaged in the process. They are expensive sensors too... ouch. I am guessing all of them will be seized.
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  17. #42
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    Another update... I successfully freed and removed the coilovers, they were in pretty rough shape so I let them go for a steal to someone local that was willing to rebuild them, and used it was an excuse to upgrade to something better.

    I broke the outer tie rods free so I can install a roll center kit in the future. Now I'm waiting to remove all of the aluminum control arms and try to clean them up so I can decide whether to refinish them or not. I'll also inspect all the bushings to see which should be replaced/upgraded. On that note, does anyone have any recommendations for replacement ball joints in the rear upper control arms? Saw some that hardrace makes for the CT9A, but I'm not sure if I can use them for the X.
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  18. #43
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    Another update... I successfully freed and removed the coilovers, they were in pretty rough shape so I let them go for a steal to someone local that was willing to rebuild them, and used it was an excuse to upgrade to something better.

    I broke the outer tie rods free so I can install a roll center kit in the future. Now I'm waiting to remove all of the aluminum control arms and try to clean them up so I can decide whether to refinish them or not. I'll also inspect all the bushings to see which should be replaced/upgraded. On that note, does anyone have any recommendations for replacement ball joints in the rear upper control arms? Saw some that hardrace makes for the CT9A, but I'm not sure if I can use them for the X.
    You are limited on replacements to what comes in a roll center kits I beleive. If your dropped at least 1" get a roll center kit. I did my front control arms with all superpro stuff and am super happy with the end results. If you want more details, tips or anything let me know.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  19. #44
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    You are limited on replacements to what comes in a roll center kits I beleive. If your dropped at least 1" get a roll center kit. I did my front control arms with all superpro stuff and am super happy with the end results. If you want more details, tips or anything let me know.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    I was leaning on all superpro stuff, but I was under the assumption that the RCK was for the front. Are you suggesting I need 2 RCKs if I am lowered so I can use the ball joints in the second kit for the rear UCAs, and just hold onto the outer tie rod portions?
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  20. #45
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    No, didn't realize you were talking about the rear control arms. I know they make a kit DURO3737K for the upper rears. Don't know about the ball joints for the rear, I would call hardrace and ask.....are they actually bad though?
    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    You are limited on replacements to what comes in a roll center kits I beleive. If your dropped at least 1" get a roll center kit. I did my front control arms with all superpro stuff and am super happy with the end results. If you want more details, tips or anything let me know.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    I was leaning on all superpro stuff, but I was under the assumption that the RCK was for the front. Are you suggesting I need 2 RCKs if I am lowered so I can use the ball joints in the second kit for the rear UCAs, and just hold onto the outer tie rod portions?
    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  21. #46
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    No, didn't realize you were talking about the rear control arms. I know they make a kit DURO3737K for the upper rears. Don't know about the ball joints for the rear, I would call hardrace and ask.....are they actually bad though?

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    Not sure, just trying to be prepared and know part numbers ahead of time. If I refinish the arm then all those bushings are being pressed out anyways, and it doesn't make much sense to put the stock ones back in if they are already out. Just my thought process.

    Thank you for the help Nate, must appreciated as always.
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  22. #47
    Senior Member alejo's Avatar
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    I re-did my rear subframe as well. Rust was bothering me.

    IMG_6005.jpg


    IMG_6159.jpg


    IMG_6157.jpg


    Color is Black Chrome 2 from Prismatic Powders. Looks way much better now.
    ATP GTX3576R
    BEST ET 11.02
    BEST TRAP 128.35

  23. #48
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    That looks boobies my man.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

    Power:
    AMS Down-pipe, MAP Resonated TP, UR Dual Exhaust, ETS Intake, Grimspeed 3 Port, Synapse DV, AMS Inter-cooler, MAP UICP and
    Tuned by Chet using EcuFlash
    Interior:
    AEM Boost and Wideband Gauges
    Suspension & Handling:
    Ohlin R&T Coilovers w/ 10k/10k springs

  24. #49
    Senior Member Devour's Avatar
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    Wow, that does look very good.
    08 Evo X GSR

    Chet Rickerman Tuned

    EFR 8374 IWG, AMS TMP, Stock Block, FBO, Pump 93
    ??? Whp | ??? Wtq

  25. #50
    Senior Member alejo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nate View Post
    That looks boobies my man.

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by Devour View Post
    Wow, that does look very good.
    Thanks guys ! If you are planning to re-finish your rear subframe I did mine in Madison, WI. Charged me 165 to do the subframe with the sway bar brackets and the axle holder part. Which compared to the prices I seen around the Chicago area is very doable. Sway bar was 50.
    ATP GTX3576R
    BEST ET 11.02
    BEST TRAP 128.35

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