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Thread: Roen's CASC-ON 2018 GT2 Build

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    Roen's CASC-ON 2018 GT2 Build

    I took the Evo out on a shakedown run this past weekend to test out the Dodson Heated Sump and the AMS SST Cooler.

    Trans held up to heat well first session, but the brakes got very long and soft. Had to pull off around the end of the session, but should've just coasted around to cool the brakes more. Brake temps were at 800F in the pits. Brembos went from burgundy to black. Nicely cooked. Brakes fully to the floor in the pits.

    In the second session, I got brake pressure back, and set a new personal fastest lap all time at this circuit, albeit with a trans that was having shifting issues and a long brake pedal. Clutches seem like they're on their way out, but they have been for a very long time now.

    Setup this time: Front: PF1001.11 Z-Rated, Rear: DS2500, Stoptech 660, Stock Cat, Nitron R1 650/727, RE-71R 275/35/18, -2.5 F / -2.0 R, 0 Toe, +1 degree of Caster to Stock, New Spark Plugs!
    Setup last time: Front: ST43, Rear: XT910, RS683, UR Mini-Muffler Test Pipe (No Tune), Stock Suspension, RS3 V1 265/35/18, -2.0 F / 1.5 R, 0 Toe, Stock Caster

    Data comparison between my fastest lap before and my new fastest (Apologies, no video):



    I'm fairly comfortable with where the car is now, but need more seat time with the coilovers. These coilovers aren't the best winter friendly coilovers and are now pretty much non-adjustable in the front. It's fine though, the car didn't feel overly uncontrolled on the rebound side, nor did it jack down much due to too much rebound. Also, due to the nature of the tracks here, I may soften the spring rates to 10/11 with the appropriate re-valving on the next shock rebuild. The braking performance is terrible compared to previous, and that's mainly due to driver confidence with a long brake pedal on overheated street pads.

    Current Mods:
    Cosworth Panel Filter Replacement
    Cobb Quad-Tip CBE
    Nitron NTR R1 650/727 Rebound Adjustable with Camber / Caster Plates
    Superpro RCK
    All Suspension Bushings replaced with Superpro Polyurethane
    RaceFab Camber Arms
    Performance Friction 1001.11 Z-Rated Front
    Ferodo DS2500 Rear
    Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R

    Over the winter, the plan is:
    Install my Moore Racing Toe Arms
    4 Poly Engine / Trans Mounts
    Beatrush Differential Spacer
    Torque Solution Driveshaft Carrier Bearing Support Bushings
    Driveshaft Shop CF Driveshaft
    Quaife ATB Front Diff
    Cusco Type RS 1.5 Rear Diff
    SS Brake Lines
    Girodisc 2-Pc Rotor Upgrade
    Girodisc S/S pads for the street, ST43 for the track
    Girodisc Titanium Heat Shields
    Brembo (Blackbo) Full Rebuild:
    Racing Brake Stainless Steel Pistons
    Girodisc Front & Rear Caliper Rebuild Kit
    TE37SL 18x10, +20 Track Rims
    Whatever is the next track tire of choice >=180 treadwear
    Last edited by Roen; 06-12-2017 at 10:19 AM.

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    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Why are you running street pads after running ST43's last time? What fluid are you using?

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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Why are you running street pads after running ST43's last time? What fluid are you using?
    This wasn't meant to be a competitive run, just a shakedown test of the SST after the trans mods. I wanted to see if the trans could last the entire session without overheating, and it performed admirably. I actually set the fastest time without even thinking about driving fast, I only noticed it in the AIM solo after the lap had finished.

    Stoptech 660 is in the lines.

    Next year, will be the full campaign. I'm not running this year because I wouldn't be able to do the full season and I want to maintain my "novice" title for the full season. Trying to win both the novice overall and the overall.
    Last edited by Roen; 06-12-2017 at 10:20 AM.

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    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Why are you running street pads after running ST43's last time? What fluid are you using?
    This wasn't meant to be a competitive run, just a shakedown test of the SST after the trans mods. I wanted to see if the trans could last the entire session without overheating, and it performed admirably. I actually set the fastest time without even thinking about driving fast, I only noticed it in the AIM solo after the lap had finished.

    Stoptech 660 is in the lines.

    Next year, will be the full campaign. I'm not running this year because I wouldn't be able to do the full season and I want to maintain my "novice" title for the full season. Trying to win both the novice overall and the overall.
    I highly recommend ST47 front / ST43 rear with torque or endless fluid

    Rock solid brakes, just loud as F.

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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Why are you running street pads after running ST43's last time? What fluid are you using?
    This wasn't meant to be a competitive run, just a shakedown test of the SST after the trans mods. I wanted to see if the trans could last the entire session without overheating, and it performed admirably. I actually set the fastest time without even thinking about driving fast, I only noticed it in the AIM solo after the lap had finished.

    Stoptech 660 is in the lines.

    Next year, will be the full campaign. I'm not running this year because I wouldn't be able to do the full season and I want to maintain my "novice" title for the full season. Trying to win both the novice overall and the overall.
    I highly recommend ST47 front / ST43 rear with torque or endless fluid

    Rock solid brakes, just loud as F.
    Why ST47 instead of ST43 all around?

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    My track rotors:
    Bendix PRT5705
    Pronto BR901004

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

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    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Why are you running street pads after running ST43's last time? What fluid are you using?
    This wasn't meant to be a competitive run, just a shakedown test of the SST after the trans mods. I wanted to see if the trans could last the entire session without overheating, and it performed admirably. I actually set the fastest time without even thinking about driving fast, I only noticed it in the AIM solo after the lap had finished.

    Stoptech 660 is in the lines.

    Next year, will be the full campaign. I'm not running this year because I wouldn't be able to do the full season and I want to maintain my "novice" title for the full season. Trying to win both the novice overall and the overall.
    I highly recommend ST47 front / ST43 rear with torque or endless fluid

    Rock solid brakes, just loud as F.
    Why ST47 instead of ST43 all around?
    Depends on your tires.

    With my street tires (AD08R) I used ST43.

    Now with R compounds (NT01) I use the ST47/ST43 combo.

    Evo 10 is a heavy mofo. Use good pads.

    Either way, will be loud. Most of the noise comes from the rear pads. ST43 in the rear will squeal no matter what.

    Like, really squeal. Between the noisy ass tires and brakes, my car is loud as heck on track. Can't even really hear the exhaust:



    Last edited by razorlab; 06-13-2017 at 07:39 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Why are you running street pads after running ST43's last time? What fluid are you using?
    This wasn't meant to be a competitive run, just a shakedown test of the SST after the trans mods. I wanted to see if the trans could last the entire session without overheating, and it performed admirably. I actually set the fastest time without even thinking about driving fast, I only noticed it in the AIM solo after the lap had finished.

    Stoptech 660 is in the lines.

    Next year, will be the full campaign. I'm not running this year because I wouldn't be able to do the full season and I want to maintain my "novice" title for the full season. Trying to win both the novice overall and the overall.
    I highly recommend ST47 front / ST43 rear with torque or endless fluid

    Rock solid brakes, just loud as F.
    Why ST47 instead of ST43 all around?
    Depends on your tires.

    With my street tires (AD08R) I used ST43.

    Now with R compounds (NT01) I use the ST47/ST43 combo.

    Evo 10 is a heavy mofo. Use good pads.

    Either way, will be loud. Most of the noise comes from the rear pads. ST43 in the rear will squeal no matter what.

    Like, really squeal. Between the noisy ass tires and brakes, my car is loud as heck on track. Can't even really hear the exhaust:



    Lol that is loud, but why do you feel like you need extra front end braking?

    Ever thought about going to 71R? It's a street tire that's softer and less durable than the NT01 lol.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

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    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post

    Ever thought about going to 71R? It's a street tire that's softer and less durable than the NT01 lol.
    You answered the question.

    Brake pad wise, I answered the question above "The Evo 10 is a heavy mofo". Most weight is on the front.

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    Wouldn't the stock proportioning valve already take care of that?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

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    Hi there,

    Thanks for the information. May I know what track this is? Also, you mentioned shifting issues in the second session, can describe what they area?

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    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Wouldn't the stock proportioning valve already take care of that?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I'm not doing it for bias, I'm doing it for stopping power.

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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Wouldn't the stock proportioning valve already take care of that?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I'm not doing it for bias, I'm doing it for stopping power.
    Yes, my point is, wouldn't you have too much front braking now and have worse braking?

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    Quote Originally Posted by hogig View Post
    Hi there,

    Thanks for the information. May I know what track this is? Also, you mentioned shifting issues in the second session, can describe what they area?
    Toronto Motorsports Park

    The SST decided it didn't want to engage 4th gear during the shift, you can see it hesitate.
    Last edited by Roen; 06-14-2017 at 10:35 PM.

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    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Wouldn't the stock proportioning valve already take care of that?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I'm not doing it for bias, I'm doing it for stopping power.
    Yes, my point is, wouldn't you have too much front braking now and have worse braking?
    Not at all. Car is super stable under braking. Way more stable than my Evo 8 ever was under braking at the same track.

    This car with this brake setup is easily the best braking car on track that I've ever owned .

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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Roen View Post
    Wouldn't the stock proportioning valve already take care of that?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I'm not doing it for bias, I'm doing it for stopping power.
    Yes, my point is, wouldn't you have too much front braking now and have worse braking?
    Not at all. Car is super stable under braking. Way more stable than my Evo 8 ever was under braking at the same track.

    This car with this brake setup is easily the best braking car on track that I've ever owned .
    Isn't that what too much front brake will feel like? Front tires are used for braking, rear tires arent braking enough, front tires can't offer any cornering grip under full braking so car feels stable?

    Contrast that with too much rear braking, front tires can still give cornering grip, rear tires can't do anything but brake, car just wants to lose its tail?

    The stability might come at the price of ultimate braking grip. What is your max braking G?

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    Why are you talking about cornering grip and braking in the same sentence?

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    I'm typing on a phone so I can't be that precise.

    I'm just referring to a friction circle, where a tire generates longitudinal and lateral grip.

    If you have too much front braking, the front tires are only generating longitudinal grip (negative direction) and 0 lateral grip. The rears are generating mostly longitudinal grip and lateral only from the road imperfections. The car feels stable, but the rear tires aren't being used optimally, so you can't generate maximum negative longitudinal grip / deceleration.

    If you have too much braking on the rear, the opposite occurs, where the front is braking but can still generate a fair amount of lateral grip when the rears approach maximum pre-lockup braking. Even with abs, the rears can't generate more than that much braking force. The fronts, consequentially, will only have a limited amount of longitudinal grip and the rest will be used for lateral grip. Any lateral grip generated by the front cannot be followed by the rear since they are busy braking and have no other friction circle grip available to corner with the fronts. This leads to a very unstable feeling car that is tail happy.

    The optimum amount is the appropriate bias front and rear where both ends achieve maximum braking grip at the same time. However, it will still inherently feel less stable than too much front end braking grip relative to rear end because that inherently will produce understeer, as mentioned above.

    Does that make more sense?

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    Senior Member Mnemuth's Avatar
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    If you are going to talk about brake bias, it would make sense to consider springs. Stiffer springs will change the weight distribution under braking and affect optimal proportion. Changing friction material is one way to tune this.

    I noticed a significant improvement in braking--from the rear--when I switched to StopTech brakes. I don't know what would happen on stock springs but I would guess a lot of locking up rear brakes due to the different proportioning.

    I hope this makes some sense.
    The finger cannot point at itself.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mnemuth View Post
    If you are going to talk about brake bias, it would make sense to consider springs. Stiffer springs will change the weight distribution under braking and affect optimal proportion. Changing friction material is one way to tune this.

    I noticed a significant improvement in braking--from the rear--when I switched to StopTech brakes. I don't know what would happen on stock springs but I would guess a lot of locking up rear brakes due to the different proportioning.

    I hope this makes some sense.
    Both springs, or primarily change in front springs vs stock front springs?

    I would think stiffer springs would slow weight transfer forward, meaning you'd want more braking from your rear axle?

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