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Thread: Easy Performance Fuel Controller Issues

  1. #26
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Setting your initial voltage higher than your start map means the start map setting means nothing. There is hardly a difference between initial voltage and full map. Basically you are barely using the controller to control anything. There is basically no ramp up between low voltage and full voltage this way

  2. #27
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    ^^+1

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    Senior Member chetrickerman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Setting your initial voltage higher than your start map means the start map setting means nothing. There is hardly a difference between initial voltage and full map. Basically you are barely using the controller to control anything. There is basically no ramp up between low voltage and full voltage this way
    Thats not true, unless I am reading the instructions wrong.

    The start MAP is supposed to be the manifold pressure at Idle.

    Initial power is supposed to be set slightly above the level where fuel pressure starts dropping off from lowering the knob at warm idle
    Last edited by chetrickerman; 04-20-2017 at 05:31 PM.

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    I think razorlab and black E are misunderstanding the whole concept:



    Or maybe I'm the one not getting it right.

  5. #30
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    Chet's voltage curve should be something like this:

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    Senior Member chetrickerman's Avatar
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  7. #32
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    If you set the "start map" knob lower then the "initial voltage" knob, you artificially raise the "initial voltage" setting. It's right in the instructions.

  8. #33
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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  9. #34
    Senior Member chetrickerman's Avatar
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    Where does it say that?

  10. #35
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Black E View Post
    If you set the "start map" knob lower then the "initial voltage" knob, you artificially raise the "initial voltage" setting. It's right in the instructions.
    This. It is literally right in the instructions.

  11. #36
    Senior Member chetrickerman's Avatar
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    This is exactly what it says as copied from the instructions

    Start MAP
    "This set point should be set at a minimum percentage that is equal to the sensor’s output at idle. Setting the value at a point lower than that at idle will just artificially raise the Initial Power level intended to be set by the Initial Power knob"

    If what you guys are saying were true, this graph they made would make absolutely no sense. Start MAP is set as a percentage of what pressure the voltage starts rising at, not the percentage of power.

    Easy-Performance-Fuel-Pump-Controller-Power-Graph.jpg
    Last edited by chetrickerman; 04-20-2017 at 08:04 PM.

  12. #37
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    You guys are overthinking.

    See again Chet's voltage curve:



    Initial fuel pump voltage is set to 20%

    MAP start voltage is set to ~ 1v. There is no direct relation between this knob and the previous knob, as they relate to different voltages (Output to pump vs. MAP voltage).

    MAP full voltage is set to ~ 2.5v.

    So let's say Chet's car MAP voltage reading at idle is 1v. It matches the setting of the second knob, so at idle the voltage output to pump will match the first knob setting.

    Second scenario, Chet's car MAP reads 0.5v at idle. Fuel pump will receive the same voltage as before.

    Third scenario, Chet's car MAP reads 1.5v at idle. Now the fuel pump is not receiving 20% power like before, but something between 40 and 50% (yellow "dot" in graph). So setting the second knob lower than idle MAP voltage artificially raises the start voltage.

    Note the pump voltage curve is the same for all three scenarios, but the last scenario results in higher idle voltage. It's an artificial increase because the real start voltage remains untouched.

  13. #38
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    This is really simple to test yourself with the system powered.
    Set the "initial power/voltage" knob to the 10 o'clock position and the "start map" to the 12 o'clock position, power the system/pump. While running, lower the "start map" to the 9-8 o'clock. As you go pass the "initial voltage" the pump/s will start to speed up more and more until you pass the "initial voltage" and the pump power plateaus.

  14. #39
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Guys, the scaling on the Initial voltage knob is completely unrelated to the other two knobs. THe position of the first knob 10 oclock, 12oclock or whatever, is unrelated to the same position on the second and third knob. First knob simply gives initial percentage of system voltage the instant that controllers are turned on - REGARDLESS of the 0-5v input to the controller. So when you say "set this higher" or "set this lower" or whatever, you are not relating the knob position. you are relating volts that go to the pump. Just because the knobs look wonky doesn't mean anything. The controllers should be set up with a voltmeter and not the way the knobs look
    I agree with @chetrickerman and @psfp
    Last edited by mityaz; 04-21-2017 at 05:41 AM.
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

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    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Setting your initial voltage higher than your start map means the start map setting means nothing. There is hardly a difference between initial voltage and full map. Basically you are barely using the controller to control anything. There is basically no ramp up between low voltage and full voltage this way
    i do not think this is true. as the first knob's scale is not related to the 2nd and 3rd.

    If you decrease the second knob low enough (lower than the point at which the volts across the pump start to increase) then YES - this will artificially increase your "base voltage" that was set with the first knob. The position of the first knob does not mean anything objective and interrelatable to the 2nd and 3rd knob
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  16. #41
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    When i was talking to Jim (at EP) he also advised that the pink (switched 12V) to the controllers should really be 12V for it to read the system voltage properly. All you guys that use the OEM pump's blue wire as the 12V switched are using it incorrectly according to Jim, because when the switched 12V is actually 9V (or whatever) at idle, then the system's voltage is not correctly read. Even though this "works" it is not ideal as the controller does not have a constant accurate read of the system's true voltage.

    This could contribute to the fact that the initial knob is differently set for all of us, because the "percentage" of system volts to the pumps is different at 9V supply vs 12V supply.

    My set up: OEM pump's BLUE wire is triggering a simple relay that then connects the pink controller's wire directly to the battary thru a fuse. The relay operates fine on 9V and 12V supply form Blue OEM pump's wire. This way the controller is ALWAYS turned on by the battery's true voltage so that it can supply the percentage of the REAL voltage that the pumps operate on.
    Last edited by mityaz; 04-21-2017 at 06:02 AM.
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  17. #42
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  18. #43
    Senior Member cbarno042's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    Awesome thank you!
    MAP Darton Sleeved 2.2l
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    E85 Stock Turbo

  19. #44
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    sorry to revive such an old thread but why does everyone mount the pump controller in the trunk? since its reading and scaling off of manifold pressure wouldnt you want it as close to the manifold as possible? aka mounting it in the engine bay?

  20. #45
    Evo X Harlot UT_EvoX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ponopride View Post
    sorry to revive such an old thread but why does everyone mount the pump controller in the trunk? since its reading and scaling off of manifold pressure wouldnt you want it as close to the manifold as possible? aka mounting it in the engine bay?
    I'll answer you here for the benefit of those perusing.

    The electrical advantage to the pump from mounting at the rear of the car outweighs the slight lag you'll have in the vacuum reference. I've personally had zero issues with my ramp/slope setup and the vacuum reference being that long. The distance delay will be insignificant w/ a turbo your size. You'll want to bring on full voltage by 25 PSI and you'll be OK.

    I'll help you with fine-tuning those controller settings once we get rolling.
    350 WHP WW Flex Fuel 2014 Evo X MR | 600 WHP OB 2008 Evo X GSR

    Evo X Builder & Tuner since 2009 - Boosted Mitsubishis since 2005 | Buy fuel kits, flex fuel setups, or order an e-tune online: http://www.wtftuned.com/

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  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by UT_EvoX View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Ponopride View Post
    sorry to revive such an old thread but why does everyone mount the pump controller in the trunk? since its reading and scaling off of manifold pressure wouldnt you want it as close to the manifold as possible? aka mounting it in the engine bay?
    I'll answer you here for the benefit of those perusing.

    The electrical advantage to the pump from mounting at the rear of the car outweighs the slight lag you'll have in the vacuum reference. I've personally had zero issues with my ramp/slope setup and the vacuum reference being that long. The distance delay will be insignificant w/ a turbo your size. You'll want to bring on full voltage by 25 PSI and you'll be OK.

    I'll help you with fine-tuning those controller settings once we get rolling.
    Thanks TJ, been searching and everyone mounts it in the trunk but no one explains why. and i would have thought generally youd want it close to the manifold. thanks for the input and info!

  22. #47
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ponopride View Post
    sorry to revive such an old thread but why does everyone mount the pump controller in the trunk? since its reading and scaling off of manifold pressure wouldnt you want it as close to the manifold as possible? aka mounting it in the engine bay?
    i am using a version of the controller that gets a 0-5V reference from a MAP sensor of your choice. This way the sensor is right on the manifold but the controller gets a voltage signal. I cannot see how/why plumbing a rubber line to "wherever" you choose to mount your controller in is even feasible. Boost leak, kink, etc - you lose fuel pressure.

    Do they not make a voltage input version anymore?
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  23. #48
    Evo X Harlot UT_EvoX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Ponopride View Post
    sorry to revive such an old thread but why does everyone mount the pump controller in the trunk? since its reading and scaling off of manifold pressure wouldnt you want it as close to the manifold as possible? aka mounting it in the engine bay?
    i am using a version of the controller that gets a 0-5V reference from a MAP sensor of your choice. This way the sensor is right on the manifold but the controller gets a voltage signal. I cannot see how/why plumbing a rubber line to "wherever" you choose to mount your controller in is even feasible. Boost leak, kink, etc - you lose fuel pressure.

    Do they not make a voltage input version anymore?
    Wire gets cut, crushed, grounds to chassis - you lose fuel pressure.

    Smart installers will use a hard or durable line or route it appropriately.

    Same with fuel lines - if it gets a hole, gets cut, gets crushed - you lose fuel pressure.

    LOL
    350 WHP WW Flex Fuel 2014 Evo X MR | 600 WHP OB 2008 Evo X GSR

    Evo X Builder & Tuner since 2009 - Boosted Mitsubishis since 2005 | Buy fuel kits, flex fuel setups, or order an e-tune online: http://www.wtftuned.com/

    Follow us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/WTFTuned

  24. #49
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    I have a strong feeling that it's way easier to have reliable low current thin 5V wire Vs boost tube. And no lag. And no high current heavy and expensive wires for pump going to the hood and back.
    2.3L Fully Built MR, 640whp on E100 EFR7670 T4 EWG. Struggling with local shops and customs.

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