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Thread: MITYAZ GSR Build Thread

  1. #1251
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Working on resurfacing the flanges... what a pain. I use a circular disk sander and then finish by hand (marble block with sand paper held together by adhesive). Progress looks good.
    .
    .

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  2. #1252
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Some other progress done. With help of @Mnemuth i started the carbon roof install. Still waiting for it from AMS. Got the front and back windows out. Front suffered irreversible damage. Will start drilling off the spot welds.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  3. #1253
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Slight update (for those who are still following lol)...

    Shep got my trans last week Tuesday. They tore it apart and inspected it. 3rd gear synchro is done. 4th is mildly worn. Their idea for the cause of the issue is poor rev match with incomplete clutch disengagement. This does make sense to me. After inspecting my clutch, i can see a lot of bluing of the plates. Called OS Giken, and they said that the clutch overheats due to incomplete release likely. Maybe i have a weak left foot or not pressing it down all the way (which i do notice myself do). My friction maretial is still within 5-7% from original thickness. So tech support said put it all back in.

    But anyway, Shep has the trans rebuilt in one day! One fucking day! And PPG 5th installed. For the deal that i got on all this, i decided we will give GSR trans one more chance. I should be getting the trans in a few days. Can't say how impressed i am with Shep's service. Price was $1450, with shipping and 5th gear and synchros.
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  4. #1254
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Oh and also, replaced the cam chain tensioner with a new one. Replaced Cam EX bearings. Installed ARP Cam cap stud kit. BY THE WAY: Make sure to use the sandpaper trick on the bottom side of the washer white torquing the nuts on this stud kit. Otherwise you will pull the threads out.

    Resealed oil pan and timing cover with new RTV.

    Installed and wired a new oil temp sensor - made by Texense. I want a more precise temp readout as this sensor is linear and can be defined well within RCP3. My previos sensor was a resistance type sensor and wasn't linear at all and would have a degree of error introduced.
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  5. #1255
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Put the motor/trans/tcase back into the car. Changed my EMAP to a -3AN tube. All steel now. Turbo flanges are resurfaced and im using a Vibrant gasket (better than 5 layer inconel IMO).

    Ground down a wrench to be able to get to that one turbo nut. Insane design. Looks like i am way ahead of schedule of the first trackday in april.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  6. #1256
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    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    Oh and also, replaced the cam chain tensioner with a new one. Replaced Cam EX bearings. Installed ARP Cam cap stud kit. BY THE WAY: Make sure to use the sandpaper trick on the bottom side of the washer white torquing the nuts on this stud kit. Otherwise you will pull the threads out.

    Resealed oil pan and timing cover with new RTV.

    Installed and wired a new oil temp sensor - made by Texense. I want a more precise temp readout as this sensor is linear and can be defined well within RCP3. My previos sensor was a resistance type sensor and wasn't linear at all and would have a degree of error introduced.
    which sensor were you using previously?

  7. #1257
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    @zabes i was using the resistive type (with pull up resistor) that's listed on AutosportsLabs site
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  8. #1258
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Well, im still at it guys. Made some progress with the car. Rollbar installed. Very nice Autopower piece.

    Evo9 Shep built rear diff with DSS rear axles.

    One piece carbon shaft with aluminum yokes (still en route)

    Got all 4 carbon doors. Will probably only run rears for now due to not having a cage. Want to install lexan in the rears.

    Installed the carbon roof. For those who are interested, the SSL roof/sunroof weigh 44lbs (without headliner and all the drain hoses). The AMS street roof (wet carbon) is just over 10lbs.

    I used a panel adhesive out of a hand powered gun. My finger is numb from squeezing so hard. A power gun would be a lot easier and faster.

    These are some pics:
    .
    .

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  9. #1259
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Got the driveshaft in. All diameters and dimensions are exactly the same as the stock driveshaft. the slip yoke outside diameter is the exact diameter of the stock one. Im happy about the quality. Best part - it weighs 14.7lbs (stock is 42lbs).

    Had to remove two hanger brackets from the tunnel. Otherwise fits well with about. 1/2" at the closest point on the tunnel. I have front and rear torque solutions engine mounts and all TS diff mounts so i dont think the driveshaft will move.
    .


    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  10. #1260
    Junior Member stigmeister's Avatar
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    Great updates as usual. I admire the DIY aspect, keep it up!

  11. #1261
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    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    Got the driveshaft in. All diameters and dimensions are exactly the same as the stock driveshaft. the slip yoke outside diameter is the exact diameter of the stock one. Im happy about the quality. Best part - it weighs 14.7lbs (stock is 42lbs).

    Had to remove two hanger brackets from the tunnel. Otherwise fits well with about. 1/2" at the closest point on the tunnel. I have front and rear torque solutions engine mounts and all TS diff mounts so i dont think the driveshaft will move.
    .


    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    One piece driveshaft???? Who & where is supplying those? Didn't think anybody made that option for our cars.

  12. #1262
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    @4B11T

    Company called PST. They have it listed for evo 7/8/9. So i just gave them my measurements ( seal diameters, spline count, etc..) and they made me one. Certainly more expensive than DSS 2 piece, but 12lbs weight difference...

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  13. #1263
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    IT LIVES!

    Finally got the carbon steering wheel, checked the fluids and took it out for a maiden voyage. A few CELs popped up - a p0011 (resolved after a few minutes of running and a restart) and a evap solenoid code - p04xx (forget which exactly).

    The reason that i had the evap code is because i took out the canister/solenoid form the back and the solenoid from the intake manifold. I was able to use a script to flash and turn off the particular DTC. All is well now.

    Also can confirm that 2ohm resistors work great while removing the factory seat belts (they have explosive charges in them that are activated in the event of a crash).

    I have this weird whistling sound if i go around 80mph. haven't figured that out yet. Seems to be only when im on the throttle a bit. Weird.

    The one piece driveshaft and solid bushings feel very unrefined. The thing now drives like a chest of drawers.

    The new Greddy intercooler has shown to be quite a downgrade in airflow. I have significantly richer AFRs in boost now. By about .5 AFR point. Will have to tweak the tune a bit.

    Other than that, the car drives very nice. Kinda missed driving it. Kinda forgot how explosive that boost feels when the turbo spools. (i've been dailying my jeep).
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  14. #1264
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    The new Greddy intercooler has shown to be quite a downgrade in airflow. I have significantly richer AFRs in boost now. By about .5 AFR point. Will have to tweak the tune a bit.
    I didn't have to touch my tune when I changed my FMIC from AGP to Greddy. Possibly something else going on there.

  15. #1265
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Well, this is a relatively objective finding. Nothing else about the set up changed. FPR was untouched. All piping is the same. Literally everything about the motor is the same except for the IC.

    It's also a bit colder now. In the 40s *F. Maybe the load calculation algorithm is slightly off at lower temperatures ( calculating higher load than adequate) but logs seem comparable as far as load calculations.

    Will do a bit more driving before adjusting.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  16. #1266
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    ^ Small update...

    The car runs nice, no CEL codes popping up. If you remember form before i was getting a cam code due to my lazy tensioner last time, well now that i replaced it with a new unit the codes are all good.

    But anyway, the one piece driveshaft saga here... So, the reason that the Evo comes with sectional driveshaft is because the pinion angles (t-case and read diff) are slightly furcocked. The car drives nice up to 110MPH. After that i am getting driveline vibration. Started my investigation and used a digital angle finder to measure my pinion angles. An what do you know, my t-case pinion is 2.9* tail down, while my rear diff pinion is .4* nose down. I've dealt with this on my jeep (although there i have a double cardan drive shaft, so the physics is a bit different). But with a one piece driveshaft you want to have the pinion angles parallel (they dont have to be cocentric/coaxial, but they have to be parallel). The reason for this is because a u-joint on the DS is not a uniformly rotating joint. This non-uniformity is more pronounced with increasing angle that you introduce to the joint. Luckily you have two of such joints on either end of the DS. So what happens is that [if the angles of both joints are the same but opposite; AND if both joints of the DS are perpendicular to each other and in phase] driveshaft cancels this non-uniformity out.

    So given the above, my rear dif needs to be nose up just like the t-case pinion is down. So i decided to lower the rear of the rear diff by about 3/4''to get my angle. In doing so, i had to modify the rear mount bracket and had to grind a hole in the rear diff cover to clear the [now new] mounting bolt. I just now got it welded up but haven't tested it yet.
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  17. #1267
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    That's some dedication to run a single piece driveshaft.. holy crap. Also, I definitely had an out loud laugh at the ground down wrench. I don't think you'll ever find a tool in someones tool box that wasn't somehow customized just to do one random specific thing on their damn car lol..

  18. #1268
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    @mityaz

    It's official, I am moving to North Jersey, NYC area! I'll be your neighbor in a little over a month...

    Where do you live in NJ?

  19. #1269
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    @saytheb haha, if you wrench on the car long enough you have to get creative sometimes!
    @razorlab thats awesome man! Ready to become pals? Haha. I live in Woodbridge and work in Manhattan and Red Bank (jersey shore). Let me know if you need help picking a place to live here.


    I've gotten a few messages about my one piece driveshaft. For anyone that follows this, don't buy the one piece just yet. My efforts of angle correction are fruitless. I also installed stock ralliart axleshafts ( to eliminate the possibility of my DSS shafts being bad). I also put my track wheels on the car (they are road force balanced). AND THE FUCKING THING STILL VIBRATES!!! Right at 120mph the car starts shuddering.

    Not sure what to do now. Spoke to PST, they are shipping me a new cardboard tube to send the driveshaft back to them. They wanna look at it and check balance. So stay tuned. I really hope i can make this work, otherwise i will have to weld the carrier bracket back on and use the DSS 2 piece shaft...

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by mityaz; 01-23-2019 at 12:34 PM.
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  20. #1270
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    @razorlab thats awesome man! Ready to become pals? Haha. I live in Woodbridge and work in Manhattan and Red Bank (jersey shore). Let me know if you need help picking a place to live here.
    Awesome. Things will be a bit nuts for a couple months but would love to meet up at some point this year.

    How long is your commute from Woodbridge to Manhattan and what do you use to commute?

  21. #1271
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    @razorlab thats awesome man! Ready to become pals? Haha. I live in Woodbridge and work in Manhattan and Red Bank (jersey shore). Let me know if you need help picking a place to live here.
    Awesome. Things will be a bit nuts for a couple months but would love to meet up at some point this year.

    How long is your commute from Woodbridge to Manhattan and what do you use to commute?
    Commute is 42min on the express NJ Transit train to Penn Station. Local train takes 57min. Cost is 10$ one way. Depending on where you are working in the city you may need to take the subway (referred to as the "train")

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  22. #1272
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Oh, and these are the pictures of the inserts for rear diff mounts. I had to shave them on a slant at 3.3* to make sure they lock in the diff at the right angle.
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  23. #1273
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    While waiting for the driveshaft to get rebalanced, ive taken on a project to install AMS brake cooling ducts from @Black E . My calipers are already brownish. Hopefully this will benefit. Too bad i can't really objectively measure this...

    Took a bit of fabrication skills to get the NACA ducts to mate to my air dams. I like how it came out. 2.5" ducting BTW

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

  24. #1274
    Senior Member Mnemuth's Avatar
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    I tried to get nozzles like that to work. They squeeze down a lot to feed the rotor they way you have them. If tried three or four different set ups on the Brembos and nothing worked. I cooked them and moved on to a big brake kit. I think if you had a nozzle that fed all around the interior of the rotor it might work. I've never seen such a part in the aftermarket.
    The finger cannot point at itself.

  25. #1275
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mnemuth View Post
    I tried to get nozzles like that to work. They squeeze down a lot to feed the rotor they way you have them. If tried three or four different set ups on the Brembos and nothing worked. I cooked them and moved on to a big brake kit. I think if you had a nozzle that fed all around the interior of the rotor it might work. I've never seen such a part in the aftermarket.
    Not something i wanted to hear hahaha. So what you are saying is that because of that stainless tube being squished into an oval it created a bottle neck for air flow? The air does seem to feed right into the open center area of the rotor. I am guessing it would then be forced thru the internal veins of the rotor peripherally. What size ducting did you have?
    '11 GSR
    current: same exact as last. new block, new head. no kaboom yet.

    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. <--KABOOM (blown HG)

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM (spun rod bearing)

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