User Tag List

Page 30 of 30 FirstFirst ... 20282930
Results 726 to 749 of 749

Thread: MITYAZ GSR Build Thread

  1. #726
    Senior Member DereksX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    1,316
    Mentioned
    50 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    How do you wrap it up after insertion? That seems difficult...she must really trust you!
    WTF 2.0 in Progress

  2. #727
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Boca Raton, FL
    Posts
    2,148
    Mentioned
    172 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hahaha well played!

  3. #728
    Senior Member Madmartigan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Kansas City Area
    Posts
    1,221
    Mentioned
    71 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by DereksX View Post
    How do you wrap it up after insertion? That seems difficult...she must really trust you!
    Slow clap ?

  4. #729
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,062
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by DereksX View Post
    How do you wrap it up after insertion? That seems difficult...she must really trust you!
    You had me for a while there...

    Who writes your content? Lol

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  5. #730
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,062
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    So...
    Finally got this thing buttoned up. The fucking full race kit (and now my current downpipe because it's identical to full race's flange) doesn't have a pindexing feature on the V-band connection to turbo. The two pieces simply mate flat-to-flat and the V-band puls it and centers it. No stepped lip, nothing. It is pretty difficult to align both ends and then being able to tighten the v-bands and have them do what they do. I knew this about my downpipe but it was much more difficult this time with all the heatshields and manifold condoms in the way. Finally tho, the heat shielding is complete.
    Tomorrow's plan - to finish the dual oil cooler system install and change to some fresh 15w50 Dominator. Not sure if I will have time to make the second air duct for the second oil cooler before friday.
    The QRJ is on backorder, so i guess Synapse it is for now.


    Last edited by mityaz; 05-17-2018 at 05:50 PM.
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  6. #731
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,062
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Okay friends!
    The Evo lived to fight another track day! Did another one today and [as always] there are some good and bad things.

    Lets address the oil temperature first. This is the same track where i saw mid 230s in the 36-39* ambient temps. With this new setup of running two coolers (right cooler is using factory junk plastic duct) the oil temps were low to mid 230s but with an ambient temp of 83-85*F. So ambient temp difference of 50*F and temps are about the same. I would consider this a success. The real test is when i take this thing onto the big track where i was the previous time and my temps reached 279*F. I also must say that it now takes 8 quarts to fill the system.

    Heatshielding worked absolutely amazing. After smoking out on the first heat cycle (as they all do), the engine bay was so cool that I could touch the manifold condom with my bare hands. I am very much satisfied with the outcome here.

    ISSUE #1. The issue that I kept having [again] is the AWD system turning off. This is the same track that i had this issue once already. But after bleeding the system and purging all the air I thought that maybe it's alright now. Well, no. The AWD worked beautifully at the large track NJMP Lightning. But Lightning is a very broad and sweeping track. This one today was slower and just a shit ton of turns. So the TARMAC light would start blinking and the AWD diagram would go blank and I would start spinning the inside tires like crazy. I dont know what to do about this. Any recommendations? Bleed again? Or is that just how it is? I would like to keep the Evo X diff if possible. I was running the car with traction off once and then with AYC brake off also. Same result - AWD goes out after certain parts on the track where there is a bunch of turns. I'll be honest, I dont like this small track that much anymore so i dont see myself going to it that much and the AWD worked well on the larger track.

    ISSUE #2. I keep wearing my RE71Rs primarily on the outside. Front camber is at negative 2.4-2.5*. 0 toe. Rear is at 1.7* with zero toe. Hot tire pressure i measure about 40PSI (i then dropped a bit to 37psi). Some people have mentioned that I am not running enough camber and that the car rolls over the edges too easy. What would you guys suggest? What am I doing wrong with the tires?
    @razorlab @Mnemuth @zabes @momo @Black E @UT_EvoX and everyone else.

    Thank you

    Here is a a pic on the car today with my jeep as the "supplies" truck


    .
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  7. #732
    Senior Member Mnemuth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    1,142
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have beaten the piss out of my car on tight tracks with never ending turns (e.g. Gingerman in Michigan, Putman Park) and never experienced what you describe. I just hold down the button and wait until it has turned off. No lights or flashing or anything aside from constant point bye's.

    It is interesting to review the pictures you can buy (if the group has a photographer) in hard turns. The camber you think you have doesn't necessarily hold up under track levels of grip.
    The finger cannot point at itself.

  8. #733
    Senior Member Mnemuth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    1,142
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    So...
    Finally got this thing buttoned up. The fucking full race kit (and now my current downpipe because it's identical to full race's flange) doesn't have a pindexing feature on the V-band connection to turbo. The two pieces simply mate flat-to-flat and the V-band puls it and centers it. No stepped lip, nothing. It is pretty difficult to align both ends and then being able to tighten the v-bands and have them do what they do. I knew this about my downpipe but it was much more difficult this time with all the heatshields and manifold condoms in the way. Finally tho, the heat shielding is complete.
    Tomorrow's plan - to finish the dual oil cooler system install and change to some fresh 15w50 Dominator. Not sure if I will have time to make the second air duct for the second oil cooler before friday.
    The QRJ is on backorder, so i guess Synapse it is for now.


    And, I'd put a nut on that back stud. No need in having the camber plate flying off mid turn.

    (I couldn't help myself)
    The finger cannot point at itself.

  9. #734
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,062
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Mnemuth View Post
    I have beaten the piss out of my car on tight tracks with never ending turns (e.g. Gingerman in Michigan, Putman Park) and never experienced what you describe. I just hold down the button and wait until it has turned off. No lights or flashing or anything aside from constant point bye's.

    It is interesting to review the pictures you can buy (if the group has a photographer) in hard turns. The camber you think you have doesn't necessarily hold up under track levels of grip.
    Just so that I understand, you hit the AYC button once the traction control turns off. You then hold the same button for a few seconds - it now says "AYC Brake OFF". And thats it, correct? Even at this level the AWD was still turning off on me (but would come right back on once the track gets less curvy) . Do you think your diff coolers have something to do with this?

    PS. That back stud is just during mock up. The strut bar wasn't even in place yet.
    Last edited by mityaz; 05-20-2018 at 04:25 PM.
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  10. #735
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    307
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    wonder if your just lifting a rear wheel causing the system to go a bit nuts on the tight track.

  11. #736
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    2,160
    Mentioned
    185 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Once again, AWD can't "turn off".

    You need more front camber for sure.

    I run -3.2 to -3.4 front

    I'll respond to other things once I get home from my weekend trip

  12. #737
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,062
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    Once again, AWD can't "turn off".
    I guess the center diff and torque vectoring hydraulics turn off. The center diff becomes an open diff and so does the rear diff

    Looking forward to you other responses. Thanks man

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by mityaz; Yesterday at 06:01 AM.
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  13. #738
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    57
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Is your race capture logging wheel speeds? You could potentially look at that to see if there are any specific conditions triggering your AWD light on dash.

    Follow Razor's advice on the camber setting. If you are not already, rotate tires front to rear every once and a while to balance out the wear. Just be careful after rotating tires, you may go from understeer to oversteer, if your fronts are pretty gone before rotation.

  14. #739
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    dallas
    Posts
    326
    Mentioned
    23 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Firstly, the AWC button: pressing the button once turns off "traction control", which is administered via throttle cut on a loss of traction event.
    holding down the AWC button for a few seconds will turn off the AYC brake. it does not turn off AYC but rather the individual braking per corner.

    As far as your situation, something sounds wrong with your s-awc system. i don't know enough about that system to come up with a sound theory but i also have never had TARMAC flashing at me but i dont ever use the diagram screen either. I would check fluid state level, color, smells for any mechanical clues. hopefully someone with more knowledge of the s-awc will know more.

    Now as far as tires, i've never run those tires before, check to see what other users with heavier cars note about them, soft outer edge could be a characteristic of them OR if your S-AWC is doing erratic things that can surely destroy a set of tires but in a peculiar fashion.

    I agree with razor & adam, if you do track a lot and have outside wear, go more front camber for sure. i've run -3* in front and could have gone more.

    Finally what is your front sway bar and it's setting? what suspension and spring rate do you run (still the Fortune auto 10k setup from the first page)?
    Last edited by momo; Yesterday at 07:23 AM.

  15. #740
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Boca Raton, FL
    Posts
    2,148
    Mentioned
    172 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Have you bleed the front be rear diffs?
    Have you checked the mechanical fluid level in both diffs?

  16. #741
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    2,160
    Mentioned
    185 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    Okay friends!
    The Evo lived to fight another track day! Did another one today and [as always] there are some good and bad things.

    Lets address the oil temperature first. This is the same track where i saw mid 230s in the 36-39* ambient temps. With this new setup of running two coolers (right cooler is using factory junk plastic duct) the oil temps were low to mid 230s but with an ambient temp of 83-85*F. So ambient temp difference of 50*F and temps are about the same. I would consider this a success. The real test is when i take this thing onto the big track where i was the previous time and my temps reached 279*F. I also must say that it now takes 8 quarts to fill the system.
    That is great to hear. Did your oil pressure change? Also, care to share some logs of your sessions? I'm interested in the rate of temp increase and some other things.

    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    Heatshielding worked absolutely amazing. After smoking out on the first heat cycle (as they all do), the engine bay was so cool that I could touch the manifold condom with my bare hands. I am very much satisfied with the outcome here.
    Awesome! Yea, I've been amazed at just how much good shielding works!

    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    ISSUE #1. The issue that I kept having [again] is the AWD system turning off. This is the same track that i had this issue once already. But after bleeding the system and purging all the air I thought that maybe it's alright now. Well, no. The AWD worked beautifully at the large track NJMP Lightning. But Lightning is a very broad and sweeping track. This one today was slower and just a shit ton of turns. So the TARMAC light would start blinking and the AWD diagram would go blank and I would start spinning the inside tires like crazy. I dont know what to do about this. Any recommendations? Bleed again? Or is that just how it is? I would like to keep the Evo X diff if possible. I was running the car with traction off once and then with AYC brake off also. Same result - AWD goes out after certain parts on the track where there is a bunch of turns. I'll be honest, I dont like this small track that much anymore so i dont see myself going to it that much and the AWD worked well on the larger track.
    I've never ever had this issue. It sounds like maybe you still have air in the system, not enough fluid or something is up with your pump. What kind of spring rates are you using? Just rear bar or front too?

    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    ISSUE #2. I keep wearing my RE71Rs primarily on the outside. Front camber is at negative 2.4-2.5*. 0 toe. Rear is at 1.7* with zero toe. Hot tire pressure i measure about 40PSI (i then dropped a bit to 37psi). Some people have mentioned that I am not running enough camber and that the car rolls over the edges too easy. What would you guys suggest? What am I doing wrong with the tires?
    Like I said before, you need more camber. I would do -3.2 in front if you plan on tracking the car more, which it sounds like you do. You will be amazed how much difference going from mid -2's to -3's will do with the Evo. I run -3.2 front and -2.1 rear currently. I would go for more negative camber in the rear too if you have the adjustment.

  17. #742
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,062
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thank you for replies, guys.
    @AdamEvo My RCP is not logging wheel speed. I am not sure if it's possible ( i mean im sure it is, but...). I think that the pump is overheating and goes into a failsafe mode.
    @momo i am running Hotchkis front and back sway bars on stiffest setting on both.
    @Black E I've bled the center diff before the other track day and got a bunch of bubbles out. And it was completely fine on the large track for the whole day. But back at this small and tight track the issue was happening again.
    I haven't checked the fluid levels yet, but i dont think that should cause an issue (besides catastrophic failure).
    What i did notice is that the AYC reservoir has a mesh sieve ( a filter i guess) towards the bottom third of the reservoir. When i was bleeding my center diff i noticed that once i squirted out some fluid from the nipple and went back to the trunk to check the level - i noticed that the fluid took some time to seep thru that sieve to fill the air pocket. It's almost like the sieve is semi-permeable or something. So i was thinking maybe during all the pumping and such the fluid level changes dramatically to the point where the pump ingests the air form the air pocket. Had anyone notices that too? Im thinking of poking holes with a screwdriver in that sieve so that the fluid goes down right away.
    And also, my pump is in the trunk FWIW (less cooling?)
    @razorlab i haven't uploaded much data yet, just a few quick peeks to see the temps. I'd be happy to share that with you once i have a link tho.
    So the plan is to go more camber. My rear is fully adjustable so i'm sure ill be able to go beyond -1.7* in the rear.
    I am running Hotchkiss F/R bars on full stiff. Spring rates are 12F/14R on FA500 coilovers. The coilovers originally were valved for 10/10 spring rates though.
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  18. #743
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    2,160
    Mentioned
    185 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That seems like it’s setup super stiff.

    Have you tried bringing the bars down? What tire was spinning? Front or rear? You might have been constantly lifting a tire and the pump was working over time. The pump actuates big time when a tire lifts.

    Go up a driveway/curb and get a tire to lift and you will hear the pump whine. Also my tire spins when I do this going up my driveway.
    Last edited by razorlab; Yesterday at 05:02 PM.

  19. #744
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    dallas
    Posts
    326
    Mentioned
    23 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Front end sounds too stiff. I'd put the bar at full soft. I didn't even like the balance with the front bar on medium.

  20. #745
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,062
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    @razorlab @momo i was trying to minimize body roll. If i soften the front bar wouldn't the car roll even more? Maybe softening bar while revalving for more compression/rebound could work?

    Razor, its hard to tell which tire was spinning, but id say the inside rear, but thats after the pump turned off.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  21. #746
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    2,160
    Mentioned
    185 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    @razorlab @momo i was trying to minimize body roll. If i soften the front bar wouldn't the car roll even more? Maybe softening bar while revalving for more compression/rebound could work?

    Razor, its hard to tell which tire was spinning, but id say the inside rear, but thats after the pump turned off.
    You have body roll with 12k/14k spring rates?

    My car feels pretty flat with 10k/10k and a rear bar upgrade (front is OEM) on medium setting. Yes, I know it's not literally flat but it feels good.

    I think your car is set up too stiff and you are lifting a wheel in tighter corners. I personally would set the front bar on full soft and the rear bar on medium and see how it feels.

  22. #747
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    1,062
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by razorlab View Post
    You have body roll with 12k/14k spring rates?.[/QUOTE]


    I mean, i don't know. Im not sure what its supposed to feel like. But i definitely have suspension travel as i see the wheels rubbing on the plastic fender liners up top, and im not that slammed

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  23. #748
    Senior Member razorlab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    2,160
    Mentioned
    185 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post

    I mean, i don't know. Im not sure what its supposed to feel like. But i definitely have suspension travel as i see the wheels rubbing on the plastic fender liners up top, and im not that slammed
    I would hope you have suspension travel. If not, the car would handle and grip like trash.

  24. #749
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    dallas
    Posts
    326
    Mentioned
    23 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i cant speak to what that car feels like with those specific spring rates but a stiff bar in front at 10k/10k does reduce front end body roll... at the expense of massive under steer.


    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    I mean, i don't know. Im not sure what its supposed to feel like. But i definitely have suspension travel as i see the wheels rubbing on the plastic fender liners up top, and im not that slammed
    body roll? get in a pedestrian car and turn kind of fast. when you feel like you are 2 ft +/- your passenger... that is body roll.

    your FRONT tires are rubbing your front fender liners? if so what size wheel/tire and offset?
    Last edited by momo; Today at 07:20 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •