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Thread: MITYAZ GSR Build Thread

  1. #1001
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Guys, need help!

    Im having a lot of trouble mating the tcase to transmission. Spent nearly an hour doing it. CANT GET THE FUCKING THING TO MATE! stub shafts are out. Ive done this multiple times before. Teeth appear fine. What tha hell guys?!?! Any suggestions? @Black E



    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  2. #1002
    Evo X Harlot UT_EvoX's Avatar
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    How are we really supposed to help you with a purely mechanical task via an Internet message board?

    Just don't try to use the bolts to force it to be drawn in. That's a BAD idea and will break things either now or later. You should be able to slip it on by hand (I know, the thing is heavy as hell, so easier said than done) with everything lightly lubed up and lined up with the dowel pin. You've done it before apparently, so this probably isn't of much help. I can only tell you what not to do...

    If it's that difficult, it'll be worth slipping it back out of the transmission to make sure the o-ring is still in decent shape.
    350 WHP WW Flex Fuel 2014 Evo X MR | 600 WHP OB 2008 Evo X GSR

    Evo X Builder & Tuner since 2009 - Boosted Mitsubishis since 2005 | Buy fuel kits, flex fuel setups, or order an e-tune online: http://www.wtftuned.com/

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  3. #1003
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UT_EvoX View Post
    How are we really supposed to help you with a purely mechanical task via an Internet message board?

    Just don't try to use the bolts to force it to be drawn in. That's a BAD idea and will break things either now or later. You should be able to slip it on by hand (I know, the thing is heavy as hell, so easier said than done) with everything lightly lubed up and lined up with the dowel pin. You've done it before apparently, so this probably isn't of much help. I can only tell you what not to do...

    If it's that difficult, it'll be worth slipping it back out of the transmission to make sure the o-ring is still in decent shape.
    So i cant even get it started. There are two pairs of sleeves that telescope into each other. The inner longer sleeve is the one that should engage first (because it's longer). But i cant even get that one in. Its almost like the tolerances are slightly different with the tcase.

    I figured i'd ask if maybe you guys had "tricks" to try. Every other time i was able to do it fairly easy by hand. This tcase is rebuilt and does have a Quaife diff, although i am not sure if that sleeve that i cant engage is part of the Quaife diff

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  4. #1004
    Evo X Harlot UT_EvoX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mityaz View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by UT_EvoX View Post
    How are we really supposed to help you with a purely mechanical task via an Internet message board?

    Just don't try to use the bolts to force it to be drawn in. That's a BAD idea and will break things either now or later. You should be able to slip it on by hand (I know, the thing is heavy as hell, so easier said than done) with everything lightly lubed up and lined up with the dowel pin. You've done it before apparently, so this probably isn't of much help. I can only tell you what not to do...

    If it's that difficult, it'll be worth slipping it back out of the transmission to make sure the o-ring is still in decent shape.
    So i cant even get it started. There are two pairs of sleeves that telescope into each other. The inner longer sleeve is the one that should engage first (because it's longer). But i cant even get that one in. Its almost like the tolerances are slightly different with the tcase.

    I figured i'd ask if maybe you guys had "tricks" to try. Every other time i was able to do it fairly easy by hand. This tcase is rebuilt and does have a Quaife diff, although i am not sure if that sleeve that i cant engage is part of the Quaife diff

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Perhaps the teeth aren't chamfered like on the stock front diff. You may have to do some hand filing if this is the case

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
    350 WHP WW Flex Fuel 2014 Evo X MR | 600 WHP OB 2008 Evo X GSR

    Evo X Builder & Tuner since 2009 - Boosted Mitsubishis since 2005 | Buy fuel kits, flex fuel setups, or order an e-tune online: http://www.wtftuned.com/

    Follow us on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/WTFTuned

  5. #1005
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    F**ckin A!

    Ended up filing the very edges of teeth on both male amd female inner tubes. Once it found itself and telescoped enough into itself i used the bolts to gently pull it in. Quaife tolerances are definitely on the tight side
    .


    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  6. #1006
    Senior Member mityaz's Avatar
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    Wanted to post something i've found online for the DIY-ers out there.
    So apparently it's a known issue with ARP fasteners that the torque values are accounting for a certain level of friction between different components of the fastener and pieces being bolted together.

    I don't know if you guys remember me saying that when I was torquing down my previous head (the one that pulled the headstud out) i experienced a "slip" while i was torquing down one stud. The slip occurred roughly around 80ft*lbs and then the torque wrench tightened up again. I didn't know what to make of it and went ahead with it because it still took all of 100ft*lbs of torque. Fast forward to now and after reading the article in this post, I am convinced that i fucked up the threads in that one bolt during the slip of the wrench and that was the first sign of thread failure. Once you read the article you will see where the slip happened.

    I've discussed this with @Black E a while ago and he mentioned to not put any ARP grease between the head and the washer. Now i know why and this article takes it a step farther.

    This time round I ended up sanding the underside of the washers with a 60 grit sand paper before i torqued my head down and did not use any grease under the washer. Chased the threads. No slip whatsoever. Torqued nice and crisp to 100ft*lbs.

    THe article:

    https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...ng-head-bolts/

    .
    .
    Last edited by mityaz; 07-19-2018 at 05:29 AM.
    '11 GSR
    Current
    2.05L/darton,ProH,CP 10:1 w/Ultimate pins. IWG9174 .92. GSC-S2. 4P head +1mm In/Ex. Self tuned

    Past: 2.4L,Manley94,Pro-H,Wiseco,10:1,Darton,4P head,GSC all,Supertec valves,FR 9174 IWG .92,2x450 Walbro/EP control,ID1700,Flex,OSGiken triple. <--KABOOM

  7. #1007
    Senior Member Black E's Avatar
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    I just assembled a long block for a buddy and tried the sanding trick as well. I did experience a tiny amount of slip on 1 stud/nut but overall much less slip during final torque sequence of the head studs then with factory smooth washers against the head.

  8. #1008
    Senior Member Nate's Avatar
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    That was a good read, perhapse it will help prevent folks from having head issues a bit more. Thx bro!

    Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk
    2010 GG Evo X

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